TEFAF Maastricht is not just an art fair but an annual pilgrimage for collectors, museum buyers, and investors, all searching for that singular masterpiece that will elevate their collections. Nestled in the heart of the Netherlands, just two hours from my hometown, the event is an elite gathering where private jets fill the skies and the national news covers new discoveries with fervor. Each year, TEFAF surprises with groundbreaking finds from the world's most celebrated artists, and this year was no exception.

 The TEFAF entrance is breathtakingly beautiful

A Curated Selection of Fine Jewelry 

The space for jewelry brands at TEFAF is limited, making the selection all the more exclusive. The few chosen to exhibit represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship, artistry, and heritage. Vintage and antique jewelry dealers also showcase some of the most breathtaking collections, but unfortunately, my schedule was too packed to visit them all.

 

Otto Jakob: The Poetry of Nature and History 

One of the most profound experiences of my visit was meeting German jewelry artist Otto Jakob. His work epitomizes storytelling through craftsmanship, with each piece imbued with symbolism, history, and unparalleled artistry. A particular piece that captivated me was the Papaver cross pendant, crafted from vegetable ivory—the nut of the tropical tagua palm.

 

Otto Jakob

Before plastic existed, these nuts were widely used for button-making and ivory carving. Their outer shell is so incredibly hard that, in the wild, only the agouti—a rodent larger than its cousin, the guinea pig—can crack them open. Otto’s fascination with this material led him to create a piece with mesmerizing brain-like motifs. At its heart lies an exquisitely engraved coral poppy, an idea that came to him while walking in his garden. The pendant is a quiet, organic masterpiece set in a delicate yellow gold frame with enameled stamens and stamped rose gold details. Unlike traditional high jewelry, Otto Jakob’s work never screams luxury. Instead, it speaks through its materials, details, and sheer craftsmanship, making it cherished by collectors worldwide.

 

Margot McKinney: The Opulence of the Ocean 

Margot McKinney has long fascinated me, particularly for her use of baroque pearls and my personal favorite gemstone, opals. At TEFAF, she unveiled the Marina necklace, a tribute to the Great Barrier Reef. Accompanied by Aji Ellies, a fifth-generation pearl farmer, Margot shared insights into the extraordinary journey of these pearls, cultivated in remote oceanic farms over years. The necklace features breathtaking Australian South Sea baroque pearls complemented by green beryl, aquamarine, and green tourmaline interwoven with diamonds, sapphires, paraibas, and tsavorites. The presentation was mesmerizing, deepening my appreciation for her dedication to nature’s most exquisite treasures.

 

 Margot McKinney giving an expert talk about her jewelry

Margot McKinney Jewelry

FORMS: A New Favorite 

FORMS has secured a place in my heart with its innovative approach to jewelry. Founded in 2010 by Elad Assor and Tzvika Janover, this high jewelry house operates exclusively by appointment in Hong Kong and Geneva. The name itself—FORMS—perfectly encapsulates their philosophy: bold shapes, exceptional gemstones, and avant-garde craftsmanship. I found myself particularly drawn to their earrings, which, despite their bold presence, maintained a sophisticated and wearable elegance. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted using ethically sourced rare gemstones, blending historical techniques with contemporary design.

Forms sapphire ring

Forms earrings

Forms emerald ring with a large Colombian emerald in the centre

Hemmerle: The Unexpected in Fine Jewelry 

The Munich-based house Hemmerle always surprises, blending historical elements with modern craftsmanship. One particular pair of earrings caught my attention—crafted from fossilized dinosaur bones. It was an incredible moment to hold a piece of prehistoric history transformed into a work of wearable art. Another pair, featuring natural drop-shaped pearls, was equally enthralling. Hemmerle’s philosophy remains consistent: understated yet bold, never ostentatious but always innovative, with daring use of metals like brass and aluminum. Their Nature Collection remains a personal favorite, yet they unveil something refreshingly new each year.

 

Hemmerle earring

Hemmerle earrings with fossilized dinosaur bone

Hemmerle, diamonds and pearls

Hemmerle Earrings with two stunning natural pearls.

Anna Hu: A World of Butterflies and Snakes 

The Taiwanese-born, Monaco-based jewelry designer Anna Hu presented a mesmerizing collection of butterflies, a nod to her surname, which phonetically resembles the Chinese word for butterfly. One piece, adorned with a stunning row of Burmese pigeon-blood rubies, stood out with its incredible depth of color. With 2025 being the Year of the Snake, Anna also showcased a collection of serpentine jewelry, reflecting both the symbolic and personal connection she holds with the theme. Her designs remain enchanting and deeply rooted in cultural storytelling.

 

 Anna Hu Year of the Snake necklace

Anna Hu Brooch

 

Buccellati: Timeless Elegance and a Silver Deer 

Buccellati has always been synonymous with intricate engraving and impeccable craftsmanship. At TEFAF, they displayed both beloved collections and silver objets d'art. A highlight for me was reconnecting with their warm and welcoming team, whom I first met at their boutique on Capri. But what truly stole my heart was an astonishing silver deer, sculpted from a single piece of silver, with fur so meticulously engraved it looked almost lifelike. It was a testament to Buccellati’s mastery in metalwork and design.

 

Buccellati Silver ( made out of one piece of silver)

Buccellati Bracelets

 

Feng J: Pushing Boundaries in Jewelry Design 

Feng J debuted at TEFAF with her 'Hortensia de Giverny' series, introducing the ‘Rising Gem’ technique—a groundbreaking setting that positions gemstones vertically, creating a three-dimensional garden of jewels. Her ‘Comme Moi’ brooch stood out, featuring an Australian opal at its center, surrounded by an intricate spectrum of 1,200 pavé stones. The use of a Floating Set, her signature technique, allowed the gems to appear weightless, emphasizing the ethereal nature of her work. Her ‘Toi et Moi’ brooch, designed as two sculptural leaves that can be worn separately, further showcased her mastery of contemporary jewelry art.

 

Feng J.

 

Feng J.

Santi: A Tribute to Mughal Heritage 

Santi Jewels, founded by Krishna Choudhary, bridges the legacy of Mughal jewelry with modern craftsmanship. Inspired by the grandeur of the Great Mughal era, Choudhary’s designs reflect India’s rich artistic heritage, reimagined through contemporary techniques. His work echoes Golconda diamonds, Colombian emeralds, and rare spinels—historical treasures that continue to influence fine jewelry today. Of all the jewelry exhibitors at the show, unfortunately, this was the only house that didn't allow us to take pictures.

 

With Sanne Bogers en Heleen Hoogenboom, from the Hoogenboom & Bogers

TEFAF’s Lasting Impact

TEFAF Maastricht is not just an art fair but an immersive experience where stories unfold through artistry and history. From the meticulous vetting process ensuring authenticity to the grandeur of private collectors vying for masterpieces, every element of this fair feels like stepping into a dream. While this year’s event saw a small Extinction Rebellion protest against private jets, the overwhelming focus remained on the extraordinary objects on display.

 Vintage Micro Mosaic jewelry

What makes TEFAF so exceptional is not just the jewelry or the artworks but the people—the designers, artisans, and curators who breathe life into every creation. I leave each year with renewed awe and gratitude, knowing I am fortunate to witness these incredible stories firsthand. Until next year, TEFAF, you’ve left me utterly enchanted again.

Anna HU, Buccellati, Feng J, FORMS, Hemmerle, High end Jewellery, Margot McKinney, Otto Jakob, Santi, TEFAF, Van Cleef & Arpels

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